Eleven years after the brand's first shop opened in Milan in 1978, Fiorucci arrived in Los Angeles, drawing a crowd of 3,000 people to celebrate its launch. The event was described by Andy Warhol as "just like going to Studio 54 on a big night out," highlighting the brand's association with the vibrant club culture of the time. Now, a comprehensive retrospective at the Triennale Milano explores the life and legacy of the Italian fashion icon, Elio Fiorucci.
Uncovering the Man Behind the Brand
Elio Fiorucci: From Slipper Shop to Fashion Trailblazer
The exhibition at the Triennale Milano aims to "disentangle the man from the brand," as curator Judith Clark explains. Fiorucci, who was known as a merchant rather than a fashion figure, began his career at his father's slipper shop, Emporio de Pantofole Fiorucci. This early experience laid the foundation for his future success in the fashion industry, where he would become a true visionary.Embracing Milan's Vibrant Spirit
Milan, Fiorucci's hometown, played a crucial role in shaping the brand's identity. The city's backdrop of political unrest and a perceived drabness served as a canvas for Fiorucci's vision. He sought to create brighter realities within the city, infusing his stores with a sense of vibrancy and optimism. Fiorucci's love for Victorian kitsch and his desire to bring in elements from elsewhere further contributed to the brand's distinctive aesthetic.Cultivating a Collaborative Approach
Fiorucci's success was not solely due to his own vision, but also his ability to surround himself with the right people. The brand's in-house research department, led by philosopher Giannino Malossi, was instrumental in shaping the brand's identity and creating exhibitions and publications that were ahead of their time. Fiorucci's collaborations with artists, designers, and other creatives were central to the brand's evolution, as he sought to "understand something" by commissioning people to explore it.Embracing the Unexpected
The exhibition's layout, designed by Fabio Cherstich, reflects the brand's attitude and urgency. The curators kept the exhibition open-ended, allowing new elements to be added until the last moment, mirroring Fiorucci's own approach to his work. This sense of spontaneity and the willingness to embrace the unexpected are hallmarks of the Fiorucci brand, which was always pushing boundaries and challenging conventions.Fiorucci's Distinctive Branding
Central to the exhibition is a focus on Fiorucci's distinctive branding, which included a range of carrier bags, stickers, tins, posters, and clothing labels. These elements not only showcased the brand's visual identity but also highlighted the significance of the people and experiences that shaped it. The exhibition's recreation of Fiorucci's office, filled with a cacophony of imagery and ephemera, further underscores the brand's eclectic and immersive nature.Fiorucci's Legacy: A Lasting Impact
The Triennale Milano retrospective serves as a testament to Elio Fiorucci's enduring legacy. By exploring the man behind the brand, the exhibition offers a deeper understanding of the visionary who revolutionized the fashion industry. Fiorucci's ability to create spaces that challenged the status quo, his collaborative approach, and his embrace of the unexpected have left an indelible mark on the world of fashion and design. This comprehensive retrospective invites visitors to immerse themselves in the vibrant and ever-evolving world of Elio Fiorucci, a true icon of Italian fashion.New
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